Sri Lanka has finally re-opened its borders to tourists, with some restrictions in place (check for updated COVID-19 rules and regulations before planning your trip). Given the island nation is just a few hours away from India, if you are looking for a short break from #WFH life or simply wanting to get away from the general humdrum stemming from pandemic fatigue—this is the place to visit to relax, rejuvenate and re-energise.
From its stunning beaches—vibes ranging from slow to party—ancient ruins steeped in rich history, diverse experiences (think nature trails, tea plantations, wildlife spotting, river trips revealing the country’s hidden splendours, picturesque train rides, temple visits), arguably the best cuisine in South Asia, the warm, gentle people renowned for their hospitality, Sri Lanka continues to hold its spot among the top favourite global destinations for tourists. Vogue India reached out to three dynamic influencers who love and know the country inside out to share their Sri Lanka guide—here are their top picks: some well-known, some new but each one bucket-list worthy.
Annika Fernando, founder and creative director PR, Principal Interior Designer, Annika Fernando Design and Director, Paradise Road Group
© Tristan LAURENS BERNARD / TLBphotography
Sri Lanka is home to Fernando, having lived here since the age of eight. “It’s a blessed isle,” she says, “There is no low season here—we enjoy the best beaches on different coasts all year round, along with amazing food and hospitality, wildlife, nature and an incredible sensitivity to design and architecture.”
Despite the challenges of the last couple of years—“We had the Easter attacks a year before COVID-19 struck,” she reminds us that she’s had the opportunity to re-explore the island and appreciate the different regions according to their best seasons. She shares some of her favourites.
South Coast
Hiriketiya
The beauty of Hiriketiya is that it is set away from the main road, so you literally leave your room for the magical beach and walk from spot to spot. Although surfers have been secretly enjoying this bay for a few years, many locals have been loving having it to themselves since March 2020; well almost to themselves.
Dots Bay House is the original settler on this bay. Nawodh, the owner, is passionate about the local community, creating a clubhouse of sorts for visitors to the area. Positioned conveniently at the centre of the bay, it has great music all day, with feature DJs and bands playing on the weekends. A great menu (I love the small plates and my top picks are the Cheese Roti with Tomato Relish and Sesame-Crusted Tuna), tropical cocktails (order a bottle of his ‘Jungle Potion’) and fresh juices. Ask Nawodh to cook you my favourite Crab Curry for lunch one day with a side of Pineapple Curry off the menu. My favourite for breakfast is Mond. It’s a walk up the hill and when you check out the view, no you’re not in Amalfi, you are definitely in Sri Lanka! My lunch pick is Bahia, a little café and shop run by Australians and the ‘shack’ on the beach, where we station ourselves all day for fresh grilled seafood, salad and chips. If you dare, try a local Devilled Fish (we serve every protein ‘devilled’ in Sri Lanka). One dinner must be had at Smoke & Bitters, a cool outdoor restaurant with fire torches lighting the path. For cocktails, my favourite is S&B no. 23 and I recommend the small plates especially the King Coconut Tempura. If the bay is too crowded for you, sneak off to the secret beach in front of Smoke & Bitters during the day for miles of knee-length crystal clear sea and snorkelling where you’ll most likely see sea turtles.
Thalpe
You cannot travel down the coastline and not stop and enjoy Wijaya Beach. Amazing cocktails, food and swimming in a rockpool with turtles at your feet—this is an institution. Passionfruit Daiquiri or a jug of Bloody Mary and their famous pizza (my favourite is the Tuna Red Onion) are must-haves. Off the menu, ask the owner Mahendra to whip you up Oysters and his famous Spaghetti Vongole with fresh clams from the nearby Koggala Lake.
Our newer discovery to stay in is at the stunning Sri Yoga Shala, run by Mahendra’s partner, the beautiful Eva. Inland, just five minutes drive from Wijaya, it is the best yoga shala on the island with a beautiful pool, open architecture and Durga Café that uses produce from the owners’ gardens. Mahendra whipped up the best breakfast for us—brown bread toast with Marmite, Pol Sambol (coconut sambol, not to be missed in Sri Lanka and can be enjoyed with everything, literally everything), fried egg and fresh mustard leaves, which we washed down with fresh juice of papaya, passionfruit and turmeric. Enjoy massages, yoga and slow down.
Hill Country
My pick is always Haputale, a quieter hill station, but it now features some truly special destinations. It’s closer travelling from Colombo than many other locations, but it’s just special and quaint. Stay at Thotalagala Estate or enjoy a home experience at Garfield Bungalow.
Ella is a day trip from Haputale and you can ride the famous zip line, have lunch at 98 acres and enjoy the scenery at the Ella Rest House. Visit Adisham Monastery. En route, or on your way back, stop at Koslanda Heritage Resort, which has eight rooms over eight acres.
East Coast
Nilaveli Beach Hotel is nostalgia; it occupies the best stretch of beach in Trincomalee and there’s something old-worldly and familiar about this place. With staff who have worked for decades at this family-owned property, you experience Sri Lankan hospitality at its best. Next door is Pigeon Island—a protected island off the coast that snorkel fans must visit. On the weekends, Nilaveli extends a famous Crab Curry buffet, which us locals now just expect. When you want to try something different, venture out to Memo’s, a little Italian beach club/restaurant nearby.
Yala is our famous wildlife destination in many ways. I travel with an experience-focus and I love Leopard Safaris by KK Collection. This is a great family holiday spot—kids can enjoy separate activities including bonfire making, nature games and quests, tree planting, river baths and jungle walks. They get a little certificate at the end of it. Parents can relax by the pool between safaris and enjoy great food and service. Accommodation comprises luxury AC tents with attached bathrooms. Noel Rodrigo and his German wife, who founded the camp, are passionate about wildlife and nature and the new management by KK Collection ensures details and service are top-notch. It’s a perfect synergy for an amazing experience.
Riaan Jacob George, content creator and media consultant
Since his first trip to the island 11 years ago, the luxury content creator and popular Instagrammer has made the island’s commercial capital and the largest city his second base, working regularly with local brands. “If you are spending a long weekend in Colombo, you will discover that the Sri Lankan city is a hotbed of design, art, shopping, great food and an excellent coffee culture,” says George as he shares his trendy guide to the capital.
Coffee
While Sri Lanka’s tea culture needs no introduction, there is an emerging wave of discerning coffee drinkers in the city. As a result, the city’s café culture is definitely worth exploring. Spend a lazy morning in the verandah at Black Cat Café. Housed in an old colonial-style bungalow, the owners Youssef and Matt serve up some top quality espresso shots, hearty burgers and fresh tacos. Or, hop across town to the hipster-chic benches of Kopi Kade in Kirulapone, where you can enjoy a variety of international coffees brewed in all sorts of ways. If you are looking to go completely under the radar, the recently discovered Kantina Konditori with its Scandinavian design serves up the finest quality coffee with Nordic bakery specialities, great for a quiet respite away from Colombo’s afternoon traffic. The city is dotted with small, high-quality eateries. I would definitely recommend Life’s Good Kitchen, which specialises in health food that is locally sourced. Their energy balls have long waiting lists in Colombo circles.
Nightlife
The Sri Lankan capital is known for its magnificent sunsets, which means that sundowners are quite a thing here, after high tea. The hottest spot for an aperitif is the rooftop Vistas Bar at the Movenpick Hotel Colombo. With the most stunning 360-degree views of the city and the coastline, Vistas is a great place to spot the trendy locals, watch the sun go down and listen to the homegrown jazz musicians.
Alternatively, head on over to Colombo’s most Instagrammable street for champagne and French fare on the terrace of the upscale Café Français. Here, restaurateur Jean-Charles and chef Bertrand serve up the city’s most delectable French fare. Post-dinner drinks are best enjoyed at the uber-energetic Kava Island Bar, run by local star restaurateurs Gehan and Dinesh, on a rooftop overlooking the Colombo Cricket Club. Here, you get a sense of the island vibe with the bar’s tiki-inspired cocktails and brilliant DJ gigs, drawing the who’s who of the local crowd.
Experience
One of my favourite things to do, and my idea of a cool night out in Colombo, is to cycle around. The Colombo Cycle By Night Tour is an Airbnb experience, where you ride through the gorgeous tree-lined avenues of the city and admire the stunningly illuminated colonial government buildings and homes that you will spot. This tour is best ended with some late-night street food.
Shopping
Avoid the usual tourist traps for shopping and check out some of the city’s serious shopping destinations and design hubs. On our radar is designer Natalie Pendigrast’s eponymous store Pendi, which is a collective of sorts for local craftsmen and trendy artisans. At Pendi, everything is ‘Made in Sri Lanka’ and you can check out local brands like Botanic Hues for dyed fabrics, Geo Blox for concrete objets d’art and Natalie’s own creations like lamps and other home decor items. Head on over the queen of Sri Lankan batik Darshi Keerthisena’s studio Buddhibatiks to check out saris, dresses and jackets showcasing the traditional batik art by local specialists. Similarly, if you are looking for local fashion, check out The Design Collective Store, where fashionistas Shahili and Binu have the most exceptionally curated selection of local designers for clothes, accessories and even stationery.
Anjuli Flamer-Caldera, founder, The Agency, Sri Lanka
Colombo-based Flamer-Caldera was fortunate enough to spend the three-month lockdown period last year in Tangalle, at her family’s beach house tucked away on a hilltop overlooking the private Mawella bay. “While isolated, in the big outdoors, I, an urban junkie, started making a list of all the top spots on Sri Lanka’s south coast,” she says, as she shares some of the coolest addresses for food, hidden gems to party at and pristine beach spot.
The South Side Menu
Salty Swamis Café and Surf Shop in Hikkaduwa attracts the best people from all around the world, eager to have a slice of the Salty experience. They now officially have a global tribe. Recommendations: Crispy Baked Kale, Yogi Burger, banana bread. Coffee is a must—the slow drip cold brew is my personal favourite.
Nestled down the usually busy and aptly ‘skinny’ Welle Devalaya Road in Unawatuna is SkinnyToms Deli Café, a cute alfresco, zombie-muraled breakfast option that has to be on one’s hit list. Recommendations: Benedict Egg Hoppers or Shakshuka Hoppers with a tall glass of the Ice Mocha blend.
At Café Ceylon the oysters and impromptu outdoor movie nights are champions. This relaxed and inviting land-side venue has the luxury of open space and the gift of insanely good banana fritters.
The Social Unawatuna, right next to the Unawatuna Diving Center, has a prime beachfront spot and a fabulous menu. The name game on the menu cracks me up. Recommendations: Trump’s favourite Prawn Star Burger (political pun and prawn, fully intended), Pesto a la Vista Baby! (the Sri Lankan twist to pesto pasta), hum-mus I love you (t different types of hummus—classic, onion and coriander).
Palm Hotel in Ahangama is eco-friendly in structure (and incredibly trendy). The entire property has been designed around the natural landscape. The villa was fashioned around the trees, not vice versa and the health forward rice and curry options are impressive.
Petti Petti Mirissa is notorious for its live music events, fierce brunches and funky boho chic flea markets. Recommendations: Grilled tiger prawns, Long Beach Iced Tea or the S’more Martini.
Smoke and Bitters (@smoke_n_bitters) located in Dikwella, as its name suggests, beautifully pairs its homemade bitters-inspired cocktails with the smokey after taste of their island food offerings. Hands down the best cocktails on the island made to celebrate local flavours and spirits. The simple, stylish and island-chic exterior-interior sets the tone for the S&B experience. My recommendation is to visit in the golden hour for a sunset drink and nibble. Recommendations: Smoked sandwiches are the way forward—The Roast Paan Sandwiches, Smoked Pork Belly Curry Leaf Roast Paan). Don’t miss the PeniCeylon (S&B Bitters No.5, Rockland ES Arrack, S&B smoked ginger and honey syrup, lime, Peychaud’s bitters)—a Sri Lankan recreation of the classic penicillin.
Hiriketiya Bay is all the rage at the moment and is the surfing cul de sac. It has a chilled beach village vibe. At the top of my “Hiri” list is Mond, a hotel, cafe, bar and artist residency. In addition to its great F&B offering, the Insta-worthy Mond offers art residency programmes to artists from the local area and across the globe, bringing together community, and art and culture in southern Sri Lanka. Malu Poke is a vegan delight, adapting the Poke concept to our own island’s offerings.
What every place listed have in common are the good people that plate up these wonderfully full experiences. All of these places are homegrown and are the next-gen of Sri Lankan hospitality and F&B. Sri Lanka’s hero quality is the warmth and welcome of its people and its extended family who have made it their home.
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